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Thursday, 31 December 2020

Nageshwara And Chennakeshava Temples

-  Where Mohini & Varahi Beckon

Awesome....Thanks for staying on from part II

As I was walking around the temple trying to understand and decipher as many carvings as I could, I came across a couple of small kids playing catch. To my horror, they were happily using the carvings for target practice. A couple of adults nearby did not even seem to realise the harm that was being caused.
A beautiful carving
A beautiful carving - Photo Credit - Ramani Shankar


I just took a wild guess that they must be kids from the surrounding village for whom the temple complex was just a centuries-old playground. In the nicest and firmest voice I could muster, I asked them to play elsewhere. Only after that another villager came running and took charge of the situation. 

No wonder there are so many broken noses, faces and other fractured pieces of carvings in the temple. 

Wednesday, 30 December 2020

Nageshwara And Chennakeshava Temples

-  Carvings & More

Thanks for walking with me from part I.

Remember my blog about Lakshmi Narasimhaswamy temple in Bhadravati, where I spoke about the figurine of 'the man in the long coat'? The priest in that temple had told us that that figurine was of the chief architect of the temple. 

Man in Long coat?
The supposed Visha Kanya
or the mystery person in the 
long coat

I was absolutely surprised when I saw a very similar carving here and I was told that this is the 'Visha Kanya' or poisonous maiden. The 'Visha Kanyas' were brought up from childhood with controlled doses of poison. By the time they were grown up their mere touch could kill someone. 

Nageshwara And Chennakeshava Temples

- The Twins Of Mosale Hosehalli

This trip was different. I was not travelling with Meera. This trip was with a different group of people, who were equally, happily enthusiastic about heritage, and my parents. In fact, I was not even originally supposed to travel. But after being cooped up for so long, unable to do the right kind of justice to spotted owlets and its mission to bring as many stories as possible from hidden gems all over, I just chose to grab the chance and I am glad I did. 

Our journey was supposed to take us to Belur, Halebidu, Veeranarayana Swamy temple at Belavadi and Dodda Gadavalli. But after a recent and unfortunate desecration of an idol at Dodda Gadavalli by some misguided treasure hunters, the plan had to be changed. 

This took us through some very scenic and incredibly pleasant roads on that cloud interspersed winter morning to the twin temples of Nageshwara and Chennakeshva at Mosale Hosehalli. There are times when seated at the far end of a 21 seater bus makes you feel every bump and stone personally. The journey, however, was overall fun and totally worth it. This included the roller coaster drop and climb over a dried-up water canal since there was a bridge construction right next to it. Google maps also showed a long thin road snaking across seemingly nowhere to suddenly reach the temple. 

Nageswara and Chennakeshave temples
The twins of Moasale Hosehalli

Tuesday, 22 December 2020

Veeranarayana Temple In Belavadi - Additional Information



The main story of this temple can be found here.

It was an incredible feeling when I got a chance to visit the Veeranarayana Swamy temple at Belavadi again.  I had started this year with a visit to this temple in January. I do not know how it works, but I guess some energy from the temple made sure I visited the temple again before the year-end. 

The Veeranarayana Temple
The seven doorways or Sapthadwara

Thursday, 10 December 2020

Chikkamagaluru - A 100-Year-Old Unique Heritage



Belavadi is a tiny and quaint village and is just 10 kilometres from the world-famous Hoysaleshwara temple at Halebeedu in Hassan district.

In the aftermath of visiting the famous Hoysala style architectural marvel, the Veeranarayana Swamy Temple at Belavadi in Chikkamagaluru district, we took a stroll around the village which once had about 400 Brahmin families living around the temple. 

It was a hot and sunny day and to walk around the village made us thirsty and hungry but this village has neither any tourist facility nor any hotels or restaurants. Despite our rumbling stomach, we decided to take a peek around this ancient village.

Front view of the house
Front view of the house

Tuesday, 8 December 2020

Lepakshi Temple

-  The Incomplete Kalyan Mantapa And More

Thank you for joining me from Part IV

Another place filled with drama, intrigue and designs is the incomplete Kalyan Mantapa or the marriage hall near the southwest side of the temple. 

The pillars stand all decked up in their incredible carvings, yet bare because of the missing ceiling.  Our guide dramatically narrated the macabre story behind the unfinished mandapa. 

Entrance to the kalyan mantapa
Entrance to the kalyan mantapa

Saturday, 5 December 2020

Lepakshi Temple

-  Hanging Pillar And Other Architectural Expertise

Thank you for joining me from part III

The story of the hanging pillar of Lepakshi is definitely not a new one, but it still does not fail to intrigue.  Of the 70 pillars in the dancing hall, one pillar was the chosen one. Hanging from the ceiling in a perfectly straight manner, this pillar balances the weight of all the other pillars around it. Such an immaculate calculation of the place, weight, angle and positioning of the pillar!!!

The hanging pillar
The hanging pillar

Sunday, 29 November 2020

Lepakshi Temple

- The Enthralling Murals

Thank you for joining me from part II.

 All over the ceiling in the dancing hall are colorful murals depicting various stories from mythology.  Just walking around with head tilted upwards to see these paintings was a challenge enough. So how did the artisans of the bygone eras manage to achieve such incredible perfectionism in their ceiling paintings? 

Also considering that their paints were entirely made of natural substances and have managed to survive almost five centuries, makes one wonder about the modern-day paints. It might be really interesting to paint our houses with veggies, fruits and leaves. 

Ganesha And Ravana
Ganesha And Ravana

Friday, 27 November 2020

Lepakshi Temple

- The Dancing Hall


Thank you for joining me from Part I here.

Climbing up a few steps from the entrance, we reached the dancing hall.  Interesting carvings beckoned us, but after we learnt the story behind each carving we were more than enamored.   

The center hall is beautifully spacious with a tall ceiling. The ceiling is designed like a lotus with around 100 petals distributed in 4 whorls.


The Ceiling In The Dancing Hall
The Ceiling In The Dancing Hall

Lepakshi Temple

- History And Significance


We were supposed to meet just for a pizza. Then we decided to maybe just go for a long drive and have pizza on the way back. After a breakfast of crisp, hot masala dosas and some piping hot coffee at the Bangalore Cafe, we set off. 

We had no idea where we were going, so we decided to go near Nandi hills and explore some more places nearby. Just as we were nearing the toll, one of my friends brought up this brilliant idea of going to the Lepakshi temple. So we topped on the first breakfast with a second breakfast at 'Nandi Upachaar' at the junction of Nandi Hills and we were on the way to Lepakshi temple in the town of Lepakshi along the Karnataka-Andhra border. 

Jatayu In Jatayu Theme Park
Jatayu In Jatayu Theme Park

Monday, 9 November 2020

Bhutan

- The Mighty And Magical Journey Across Eastern Himalayas

By Meera

As we drove down from Bagdogra in India to Phuentsholing, the gateway to Bhutan, crossing Siliguri, Darjeeling and the eastern periphery of West Bengal - dusty plains followed by terraced fields in the bordering district, the journey did not seem laborious or difficult.  On the way, we passed through the beginning of the eastern Himalayas while it was a pleasure to watch the meandering Teesta River, the Dooars forest and innumerable tea estates.
 
Bhutan

Sunday, 25 October 2020

Our Moon

– The Lunar Fascination Continues In All Serenity


‘The Moon is a friend for the lonesome to talk to’ said Carl Sandburg and for many of us, this is a reality as also a stress buster. At night when it shines luminously, it makes my life bright and meaningful. With so many imperfections, it is still the most beautiful and the most fascinating natural satellite to watch from our planet with naked eyes. It was time for me to join many fellow enthusiasts and other curious people from around the world to watch the Moon.
The Moon
Image Credit: Tharangini

Our Moon

-A Closer And Keener Look To Satisfy Our Curiosity


I have always felt that when making celestial observations, it is always better to respect one’s traditions, people’s cultural beliefs associated with the moon. Since ages, man’s life has been intimately connected with the Moon and their lives too are woven around it, in whatever form they are. In fact, the earth’s satellite is represented sometimes as a male deity or female goddess in different cultures.

Image credit : Kantharaj

Friday, 23 October 2020

The Talented Gollas

- Wandering Bards On The Streets Of Bangalore




The Tuesday morning was dull and cloudy, like most mornings in the recent months in Bangalore. The sun was sufficiently obscured and the sense of time was lost as the whole day looked uniformly grey.  With great difficulty, I was trying to motivate myself to begin the day's chores. It has not been an easy task these days with both the weather and the covid scenario keeping most people closeted indoors.

Tuesday, 13 October 2020

Giridarshini Homestay - BR Hills



Last updated on : 9th December 2022

Tucked away in the base of BR Hills is a quaint homestay. I first visited this place around 2011 and have frequented there pretty often. In this new 'We recommend' section we are starting, I thought I could introduce this place to all our readers in case a trip to BR hills is planned. This is the Giridarshini homestay.

The front view

Monday, 5 October 2020

Chikkamagaluru – The Marle Heritage

- With Its Intricate Siddeshwara Temple


The Marle Hoysala temples stand like sentinels in the remote backyard of Chikkamagaluru taluk in Karnataka. The age-old temples of Marle from the 10th century have stood the test of time despite its neglect. These unknown temples are just 14 and 17 kilometers from the world famous Belur and Halebid temples but nobody is aware of this. 

Outer temple walls
Outer temple walls

Chikkamagaluru - Marle Hoysala Heritage

-With Its Ornate Keshava Temple


Moving out of the tourist circuit, Tharangini and I  decided to take a peek at an ancient temple complex which is not on the map of any pilgrims or tourists. But since our aim is to highlight unknown heritage structures, we decided to visit. Making our way out of Chikkamagaluru town after an afternoon siesta, we crossed many green fields that were basking gloriously in the afternoon sun.  Even as our glance moved from left to right, it showed farmers were busy harvesting their crops while some youngsters were loitering around in village corners.
 
Veeresh, our friend who had been talking about this ancient temple complex in Marle village drove us to this place but it became a bit circuitous as even he had forgotten the way. However, a few villagers guided us to this beautiful complex standing in one corner adjoining a huge water tank. We could not reach the temples as the road was cut and we had to take a U-turn and crisscross many dozing cattle to reach the temple gate.
 
A view of the temples
A view of the temples

Sunday, 27 September 2020

Pondicherry

– A Tranquil, Soothing Time On The Paradise Island


Just like Goa, the French styled city of Pondicherry too is known for its pristine and crystal-clear beaches. But one does not see the same jostling crowds on its golden white sands and beaches.

Therefore, a visit to Paradise Island should not be missed if you want to forget the world. The beach is in fact, located right at the mouth of the Chunnambar backwaters. This place is considered a paradise as it is flanked by a creek on one side and dark mangroves on the other side.

View from ferry
View from ferry

Pondicherry

– The Amazing Ride On The Chunnambar Backwaters


There is something magical when one goes on a winding journey from a river to the endless expanse of a sea. Traveling in a steamer and enjoying the windy, choppy journey, I ask you to visualize my thrilling experience in just three minutes. It is not just the Arabian Sea but even on the Bay of Bengal and the eastern coast of India, one gets such moments to take up such escapades once in a while. 

 As we were winding up our visit to Pondicherry,  Loganathan, our guide-cum-driver who took us to most of the sights in this old French colonial town, was insistent that we should not miss this incredible experience. Although we had hardly any time at our disposal since we were taking the night bus back to Bengaluru, he dropped us off at the Chunnambar Boat office by 3 pm. I was already exhausted as it was a hot Tuesday afternoon and pretty sticky and sweltering even in the month of January.

Tuesday, 22 September 2020

Tungabhadra Backwaters

- A Home Away From Home For Winter Visitors


Thank you for joining me from Part I.

A couple of young guys announced that the boat was ready. I looked around and did not see anything. Then they asked us to leave our footwear and walk up to the boat. It was just getting more and more curious. 

As we walked, the ground looked deceptively dry and cracked from the lack of moisture. One step in and the underlying clay announced its presence in the most slippery way. Slipping and sliding along we reached the boat. This was no place to make a splash in life. 

The multipurpose boat was used for both fishing and birding. I was not even remotely mentally prepared for this kind of ride. As five of us sat balanced on the rim, hanging on to the boat and the camera was quite a challenge. There were no life jackets and while others boasted about their swimming skills, I held on tighter to the rim.  Even as flocks and flocks of spoonbills, openbills, ibis, terns and ducks flew by, there was little I could do other than gawk.

Ibis and terns flying together
Ibis and terns flying together