A childhood memory of an ancient temple with its unbelievable
architecture took me back to the banks of River Cauvery in the Mysuru
district of Karnataka state. Although one can see the footprints of many
dynasties in the erstwhile royal kingdom of Mysore, the one in T.
Narasipura taluk is certainly breathtaking.
Besides, if any temple from the Hoysala architectural style stands out amid many bygone structures, it is the Keshava temple at Somanathapura town. It is said to be the most ornate and perfect model of Hoysala architecture. However, one can see the ravages of time as it looks bereft with both invaders and nature taking a toll on this exquisite monument.
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| Outer wall of the temple |
As we enter the temple premises after a long wait, overcoming crowds who are busy taking selfies, a huge garden beckons me which has long comfortable benches for people to relax and soak in the age-old ambiance. At the main entrance, there is a stone inscription in old Kannada - describing the history of the temple construction. It was built in the 13th century by Somanatha Dandanayaka, an illustrious general of the Hoysala Army during the reign of King Narsimha III. The General built it with his King’s permission and resources and it was consecrated in 1268.
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| The main entrance to the temple |
A masterpiece of the Hoysala style, this is a Trikuta temple with three
shrines and three vimanas. The temple is built on a star-shaped raised
platform and rests in the centre of a spacious enclosure having 64
cells. Earlier, these cells had demi-gods but now they are housed in an
ASI museum. It has an open Mandapa and is enclosed by a compound wall.
There are miniature shrines in the Mandapa area but within the compound
wall.
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| Keshava Temple from the main entrance |
Now, who was behind the famed carvings? The names of a number of
sculptors – Malithamma, Masanthamma, Chameya, Bhameya, etc are carved on
the pedestals of the images. It is Malithamma who has carved the maximum
number of images as per the etchings who has also carved the northern
shikara of the Janardhan cell. It took more than half a century to build
this temple with 500 sculptors working day and night. Every stone speaks
and is alive with epics, puranas, stories, and Lord Krishna’s
life.
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| The temple at somanathapura and picture time |
With hardly any security or ASI personnel inside the temple, many
youngsters occupied most vantage points (sometimes sitting on damaged
elephants or inside miniature shrines) for pictures. Their interest in
architecture was not as passionate though. Despite these setbacks, I
made it a point to study the unique style of this structure.
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| The temple on a star shaped raised platform |
The temple has three Garbhagrihas (sanctum sanctorum), three antaralas
(vestibule between the deity and the mandapa) and a Navaranga (a hall in
the temple for dancing or congregations). It is said that devadasis used
to dance in this area during festival occasions. With the Mahadwara
(main entrance) standing on the East, the three images of Vishnu are
installed in the cells which are surmounted by elegantly carved shikaras
(towers). The Lathe-turned pillars are not so visible but the delicately
carved 16 types of ceilings are so varied that one needs some time to
study them.
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| Stone Inscription at Mahadwara giving details of construction |
But most of my time was spent looking at the outer walls of the temple.
This has five bands of sculptures which is sheer artistry. It is such an
ornately carved temple; one is left wondering how could earthly human
beings come out with such intricately carved details in an age when
technology was not there.
Purely, a Vaishnava temple, one cannot find any other gods or goddesses in this temple, and further, no worship is done (due to damage to idols). Here one can see Lord Krishna’s three forms – Keshava, Janardhan and Venugopal but all damaged. The wanton destruction of the temple at the hands of armies of the invaders to our country where many deities are broken, carvings are damaged and wall sculptures are defaced brutally, one is saddened at the ruthless behavior of such people. Despite the damage, the temple retains all its charm and attraction as it is an architectural and engineering marvel.
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| The Beautiful garden around the temple |
It is better to visit this monument on a weekday as it attracts visitors and temple connoisseurs from around the world. Further, one has to purchase an online ticket (mandatory) before coming to this famed destination otherwise, it is not possible to visit this temple which opens at 9 am and closes at 5.30 pm sharp. Don’t look for eateries or any shops as this place has no such facilities for tourists.
How To Reach There?
The Somnathpur temple is situated about 38 kilometers east of Mysuru
city in T. Narasipura taluk. However, from Bengaluru, it is just 135
kms. So, take the Kanakpura Road (NH-209) and drive down a good road to
Malvalli. From here, take another deviation to reach Bannur on SH-33.
From Bannur town, it's nearby, just 8.6 km, so take a left diversion to
reach the famed temple town of Somanathapura.
Location map:
More on Wall Carvings in Part-II
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