Thanks for joining me from the
previous part. Let's continue with Mahadevagowda's narration of the Soligas'
lifestyle..
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| Mahadevagowda |
Life in the forest
Life inside the forest needed a lot of skills, to survive and stay alive.
The staple diet consisted of various tubers and the leafy greens that grew there. Despite living amongst so many animals, the Soligas never hunted and they knew how to keep themselves from being hunted too. Apart from this, they knew how to identify the various forest fruits that were safe for consumption. The Soligas are also experts in collecting forest honey,
which was also a part of their diet.
I asked Mahadevagowda if they still had access to any of those tubers and leafy greens. He told that was not available now. All they can procure from the forest right now is the honey and forest fruits. Now with
access to rice and ragi, their meals are more complete.
During the Soligas' days in the forest, if someone from their sect died,
they would leave that place and move to another part of the forest. Their attire was made of barks soaked in water and smoothened with stones. But then they were experts in the many ways of the forest. The Soligas also had extensive knowledge of every single medicinal herb, which they used for various ailments.
I asked if they still made use of any of that knowledge, for it would be a
shame to let it all go waste. Mahadevagowda told that they still practice and use their knowledge of the herbs. But they never teach it to the younger generation. Whoever is interested has to shadow someone who already has the knowledge and learn it first hand. But luckily youngsters are showing some interest and the skill lives on.
Worship
Mahadevagowda was not just a village head, but also the chief priest of
Dodda Sampige Mara (Big/ancient Sampige Tree). The priestly duties have been with his family since his grandfather's times. Though the Dodda
Sampige Mara can be accessed only with exclusive permission from the forest department, for the general public, the Soligas have access to this amazing tree that holds utmost religious significance to them. Even at this age, he ventures into the forest every Monday to perform a detailed pooja to this tree and the thousands of Lingas and Trishuls at its base.
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| Mahadevagowda offering prayers at the temple |
While they were rehabilitated, they brought along some of the Lingas and the Trishuls from there and the small temple where we were sitting was thus formed. I had seen these kinds of Lingas in a few other places in the forest too. He told us that where ever Lord Shiva sat and took rest, these
Lingas appeared. Mahadevagowda had no idea how long they have been there,
just guesstimated somewhere between 2000 to 5000 years. There are
supposedly several places deep within the forests where clusters of these
Lingas are found, accessible only to the Soligas.
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| A Nandi in front of the temple at K.Gudi (Kyathadevara Gudi ) |
Rituals and festivals
Near the end of the winter months, they celebrate the roti habba (roti festival). The Soligas gather around near the various Linga temples and bake rotis. The rotis (Indian flat bread) are wrapped in particular leaves found in the forest and then baked. They procure turmeric from the forest and make some curry using this along with other locally procured vegetables.
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| A temple right next to a flowing stream. One of the locations for Roti Habba. |
Once it is done it is given as an offering to the gods and then distributed to all the people of the tribe. That's followed by night-long
dancing around a bonfire by the menfolk of the community. The women gather around to watch. And this was the perfect time for them to choose their life partners.
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| The rotis being baked over a open fire |
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| The temple decked up in the far corner and rotis being baked |
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| Man playing a drum while others prepare for the Habba (festival) |
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| A festive roti habba atmosphere. |
At these dances, during their forest-dwelling days, once the boy and girl liked each other, they would disappear into the forest for about a week and figure out their compatibility with each other. What better way to test their ability to lead a life together, than surviving in the dense forests for that long, with just each other. A real-life reality show.
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| One of the Soliga instuments used during the festivities. |
Anyways, in the morning after the dance, when families realized their boys and girls were missing, they would know there is a prospective wedding in the cards. This by far has been one of the most intriguing ways of
choosing a partner, that I've ever heard of.
Once the runaway couple returned after passing the compatibility test, the formal wedding was performed in front of their gods and elders.
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| The temple at K.Gudi |
The wonderful thing was both the boys and girls had the same kind of freedom to choose their partners. Patriarchy was not the order of the day
with them.
These days running away into the forests is not an option, so marriages are pretty much regular once the boy and the girl choose each other. But
Mahadevagowda also shared another very interesting tidbit with us. Before
I talk about it, I must include this disclaimer 'please don't get any ideas'.
I asked what happens if either the boy or the girl does not agree to the proposal by the other. Very casually, Mahadevagowda told, "Oh, we have a
herb for that". Before I could recover from what I had just heard, he added, whoever refuses, the other partner has to apply this herb on the head of the reluctant partner. They immediately comply.
I was persistent. I asked what happens if they start fighting once the effect of the herb wears off? He was very confident about its powers ."
That never happens, they stay happily married", he added. My eyes could
have given competition to every other cartoon character, whose eyes just go
'boingg'... when they are surprised. And before you wonder... I did not ask for the name of the herb... :)
Moving on, there are also times when a boy likes a girl, he has to work with the girl's father for as long as it takes to convince the father that he is capable of taking good care of the girl. Nice storyline for more movies and shows?
After a while, it was time for us to go, but here is hoping our next visit to this really pretty place and wonderful people happens soon enough. When it does, we will be back with some more stories.
Location map:
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