Cambodia - The Faces Of Bayon

By Meera

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It was early morning and still pleasant when I along with our group set out to see Bayon, one of the last state-built temples at Angkor Thom complex. From any of the hotels where you are staying, it is easy to grab a Tuk Tuk and make most of the scenic surroundings as all the temples are just 2-3 kilometres away. Our guide who was at our hotel at 5 am itself, motivated us to leave early to escape the scorching sun. He informed us the temple complex was once the capital city of the great King Jayavarman VII during late 12th and early 13 centuries.

 

Angkor Thom with walls, moats 

The capital city of Angkor Thom is traversed by a 12-kilometre-long wall that extends all around the city and has an impressive moat and of course, the gigantic Bayon temple. Even the gateway to the temple has many mid-sized faces of the guardian king and they seem to be standing like sentinels to protect the city from marauders and enemies.

 

The Huge face of Bayon 

If one has to see the most recognizable facets of the classical Khmer art and architecture, our guide said it can be found in the giant faces of Bayon. When one looks at them, one can't believe it as the faces are as huge as 4-8 feet wide. Even as I go round the temple, mostly up and down the standing towers at Bayon with its worn-out steps, not all of them bear the four carved, giant smiling faces. In fact, many faces are gone while some are damaged.

 

This unique temple is built at three levels and as an assembly hall for all the gods. Under the rule of various kings, it not only underwent alterations during its construction but a lot of additions were done at a later stage. In fact, the temple complex’s layout is so complicated that it leaves one totally confused and exhausted.

 

Bayon - bas reliefs dancing

It is not just the stone faces that Bayon is famous for and attracting attention. Its exquisite narrative and bas-reliefs are considered one of the finest and recognizable examples of Khmer art by all scholars. The bas reliefs go up to 10 feet up the wall and we had to crane our necks to see a variety of themes.

 

Warriors making a Kill 

Even the exterior and interior temple walls from top to bottom depict real life scenes from the epic battle between the Khmers and the Chams. The stone panels illustrate many stories and it is easy to understand them. And they are not as complicated as in Angkor Wat. The war scenes are pretty realistic but whether they are victory or losses, it is difficult to say. The bas-reliefs at the lower-level are well preserved compared to the upper level and therefore, it is easier to photograph.

 

Bas reliefs -

These 800-year-old carvings are from day-to-day life and one can see - cock fighting, hunting, cooking, boar fighting, warriors making a kill, picking lice from a friend's hair, market place and even childbirth. Most of the bas reliefs with many unfinished are located in two concentric enclosures on the first and second levels of the temple. In fact, with its war scenes, the external gallery is about the conquest of Jayavarman-VII, then the internal gallery portrays all about Hinduism, its rituals and practices followed by his successor.

 

Bayon, the Buddhist face 

Moving from the entry of the Thom to the central part where Bayon is located, it is a long way. But one cannot miss this monument as it is a unique combination of both Buddhist and Hindu themes. As is the case with other temples in Siem Reap, successive kings have left their footprints with the result that Bayon has a confusing mix of history, mythology and traditions.

 

Make it a point to visit Bayon early morning as the huge faces towering over everyone with its dark broken shadows can be captured on your camera only at that time. An unbelievable maze-like passage leads from tower to tower which is further very difficult to find during the fading light and so, plan well and visit this temple. Any visit to Cambodia, one cannot miss either Angkor or Bayon even if it is a short trip

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