Srirangapatna Fort

A Citadel That Speaks Of History From Different Periods

By Meera

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In search of ancient temples in Srirangapatna that has retained its original heritage, we stumbled on a citadel that speaks volumes from different periods but not much is known about. We know only from the 18th century how Tipu Sultan had fortified and added more structures to it. But this is a fort from an ancient era and historians have neither dug into its past nor probed into this Vijaynagar heritage far from Ballari. In fact, many parts of the Srirangapatna fort that is hidden by green outgrowths and mosses - remains unexplored and neglected while only the last rulers from this walled structure have been dwelt upon and written about. 

Visiting Srirangapatna was on our cards for a long time and me and Tharangini had planned for a long time now. But it was Srinivas Adhikari who took us to this island town in Mandya district of Karnataka. This was basically to take a look at some ancient temples but to our disappointment, most of these structures have undergone a sea change as they have been renovated, painted, concretized, whitewashed, varnished and overlaid with modern tiles. Temples from 8-12th centuries abound in this island town but they have been renovated in such a way that nothing remains from the past except the idols of gods and goddesses decked in all finery.

Most of these temples have lost their original look and looked like any other modern temple. However, to my surprise, Murali, an advocate as also a temple priest who related the town’s history despite his pressing duties at Nagmangala - took us to see an ancient part of Srirangapatna Fort that hardly sees any tourists or visitors. 

A part of the fort wall on the western side

One is only familiar with Tipu’s contribution but what is the history behind this structure and who actually built it as it goes back to the period of Vijayanagar dynasty. We left Purnaiah Road and traversed about two kilometres before we reached the western side of the fort that still retains the original history and structure.

This is literally on the outskirts of Srirangapatna and is strewn with milestones from different eras including the British. The Fort is a living example of the contribution of the erstwhile kingdoms of the Vijaynagar and Mysore empires which ruled these parts. The fort stands and spreads all along the countryside while River Cauvery meanders gently and forks into two parts and this can be seen from the ramparts of the forts. 

A view of the Cauvery river from the ramparts of the fort

It is the Cauvery which nurtures this land while the rich fertile soil is resplendent with paddy and sugarcane crops. From one high viewpoint, one can clearly see how the river naturally gave protection from invaders in those days. Running across the river island town of Srirangapatna, the fortified walls comprises stones and rocks from different times built by different kings and they speak of a history that is hardly known or has been studied.

As we got down at the entry gate which has been erected only recently to keep away unpleasant elements, Murali informed not many people visited this part of the fort as they are hardly aware of its existence. We took a right turn and came to the Delhi Gate which was overgrown with parthenium, thorny plants and weeds and we reached the walled structure whose upper part was lined with big holes. 

A viewing hole in the walls to watch and shoot at enemies

Putting a hand inside one of these viewing holes, I imagined a soldier (dressed in his traditional attire) from the Vijaynagar times standing here and keeping a vigil on any incoming enemies with his keen sight and holding weapons of those days. Walking across and crossing one deep trench, I climbed a bit uphill and gazed at the river from those heights where silence was broken only by the chirping of birds. Even at that hour, I sighted many pelican groups and other species flying over the fort.

Local people visit this place only after 4 pm as the surroundings turn cool and one can see groups of birds perched on the stone walls and cooing to their heart’s content. For local and migratory birds, food is available in plenty and there is no human disturbance. The western part of the fort where no visitors come provides a safe habitat for many winged visitors and I thanked the kings of yore for their contribution. 

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