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Thursday 31 December 2020

Nageshwara And Chennakeshava Temples

-  Where Mohini & Varahi Beckon

Awesome....Thanks for staying on from part II

As I was walking around the temple trying to understand and decipher as many carvings as I could, I came across a couple of small kids playing catch. To my horror, they were happily using the carvings for target practice. A couple of adults nearby did not even seem to realise the harm that was being caused.
A beautiful carving
A beautiful carving - Photo Credit - Ramani Shankar


I just took a wild guess that they must be kids from the surrounding village for whom the temple complex was just a centuries-old playground. In the nicest and firmest voice I could muster, I asked them to play elsewhere. Only after that another villager came running and took charge of the situation. 

No wonder there are so many broken noses, faces and other fractured pieces of carvings in the temple. 
As I walked a little further, much to my amusement, another lady came out of the temple dragging a goat that had wandered into the sanctum. She was trying to locate its owner. For the villagers, it was just a playground and grazing ground. Not the purpose Veera Ballala II would have hoped the temple would serve.

Goddess with corn cob in her hand
Goddess with corn cob in her hand

Sorry about the deviation, moving on to the carvings now - a beautiful figurine of a goddess holding corn of cob in one hand stands in testimony to the existence and value of corn cobs even in those days. Not just here, but I did see them in a few other temples too. I do hope I've collected pictorial references of those. There are some references of corn cobs arriving in India around the 11th century, all the from Mexico. But I've to dig through some more researched matter for this. 

Mohini
Mohini

A sadly and badly damaged figurine of Mohini, the only female avatar of Vishnu, with curly hair cascading down her shoulders stands in one of the panels. In one hand, she is holding the pot of the 'Amruta' or the nectar with the power to immortalize. This is the nectar she gets back from the asuras (demons) and returns to the devas (gods).  The other hand on her head depicts how she tricked the demon Basmasura into burning himself.  The story is available here.

Vamana Avatar 
Vamana Avatar

Another avatar of Lord Vishnu, the Vamana avatar is carved into another panel. He appears as a dwarf before King Mahabali and requests as much land as he can measure with his 3 steps. Mahbali, seeing the short stature of Vamana, is amused and readily agrees. Vamana then takes the form of Trivikrama and goes on to measure all of the earth with his one step and all of heaven with his second step. 

Trivikrama
Trivikrama

When he asks Mahabali as to where he can have the third step, Mahabali understands he has been bettered and offers his head for Trivikrama to place his third step. 

Shiva and Parvathi
Shiva and Parvathi

Yoga Narasimha
Yoga Narasimha

Hiranyakashipu Samhara
Hiranyakashipu Samhara Photo Credit - Ramani Shankar


Apart from this Yoga Narasimha, Hiranyakasipu Samhara, Lord Shiva and Parvathi are also seen occupying prominent places on the temple walls.  


A couple
A couple

A musician and a couple
A musician and a couple

Tucked in between, in tiny spaces, were also carvings of couples in loving embraces. The temples are not large, but even for a temple of this size, it is worthwhile to spend a couple of hours here to truly absorb the essence of this place.  
 
I am dreaming of visiting this temple again, maybe in the evening time just before sunset. Then I would like to wait around long enough for the stars to conquer the sky and watch them shimmer there as the temple stones release the trapped warmth in exchange for soothing night temperatures. If any of you manage to do it... do share it with me. 

I'll join you soon with another story to share. Till then stay safe and happy travels.


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