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Wednesday 30 December 2020

Nageshwara And Chennakeshava Temples

- The Twins Of Mosale Hosehalli

This trip was different. I was not travelling with Meera. This trip was with a different group of people, who were equally, happily enthusiastic about heritage, and my parents. In fact, I was not even originally supposed to travel. But after being cooped up for so long, unable to do the right kind of justice to spotted owlets and its mission to bring as many stories as possible from hidden gems all over, I just chose to grab the chance and I am glad I did. 

Our journey was supposed to take us to Belur, Halebidu, Veeranarayana Swamy temple at Belavadi and Dodda Gadavalli. But after a recent and unfortunate desecration of an idol at Dodda Gadavalli by some misguided treasure hunters, the plan had to be changed. 

This took us through some very scenic and incredibly pleasant roads on that cloud interspersed winter morning to the twin temples of Nageshwara and Chennakeshva at Mosale Hosehalli. There are times when seated at the far end of a 21 seater bus makes you feel every bump and stone personally. The journey, however, was overall fun and totally worth it. This included the roller coaster drop and climb over a dried-up water canal since there was a bridge construction right next to it. Google maps also showed a long thin road snaking across seemingly nowhere to suddenly reach the temple. 

Nageswara and Chennakeshave temples
The twins of Moasale Hosehalli

The two temples stood side by side looking like identical twins basking blissfully in the pre-noon sun.  We had to climb a few steps to reach the temple complex.  Apart from a board indicating that it was an ASI protected monument and a few faded inscription stones at the entrance, there was nothing much to tell us about the temple.  

The inscription stones at the entrance
Inscription stones at the entrance

A few kids were playing around and a few goats were having a feast in the un-manicured lawn around the temple. I am guessing the local villagers were put in charge of the temple and they were doing a very thorough job of ensuring no one clicked any pics inside the temple. They also noted down all our names for the 'authorities'. 

Chennakeshava temple back
Chennakeshava temple backside

So I made a beeline to get as many images as possible of the outer walls, to bring this beautiful temple to you. There were so many other stops for the day and we were already running late. 

These temples are said to have been built around the 12th century by Veera Ballala II. This is going by the architectural style. However, no records exist. The priest's daughter Varsha, who was narrating some information about the temple told it was around 950 years old. 

Nageshwara Temple
Nageshwara Temple

As you enter, on the left is the Nageshwara temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temples are small.  A few steps lead up to a small outer area with stone benches. The doorway then opens into a compact inner windowless room, with typical Hoysala style decorated ceiling and pillars. Beyond that is the sanctum sanctorum. The doorways are also pretty small, even for someone not actually on the taller side, like me.  I know, since in my excitement to see and absorb as much as possible, I bumped my head pretty hard on the lintel.  

The typical Hoysala ceiling
The typical Hoysala ceiling.
There is a whole story on the side,
but it needs a closer look.

That raised a few more questions in my head. No, the bump did not do it. But I was wondering why do some temples have such large doorways and some such small ones. In the larger temples, they always say that people in those eras used to be enormously tall. I am very inquisitive about the story behind these tiny doorways. Though theory states it is for people to enter with a bowed head, understanding the enormous difference between the sizes of these doorways in temples of the same time period may open more doors of information. 
 
Chennakeshava temple
Chennakeshava temple - Photo credit- Ramani Shankar

On the right is the Chennakeshava temple, dedicated to the beautiful form of Lord Vishnu. The structure inside is similar, with just the absence of the Nandi that's an integral part of any Shiva temple.  

A perfect symmetry
A perfect symmetry

Varsha, the priest's daughter pointed out to the various avatars of Lord Vishnu arranged in a circle behind the idol of Channekeswara. It was kind of distressing to see some empty places inside the sanctum of both these temples from where some idols had been stolen. Undoubtedly, understandable was the reason as to why they were so vigilant about no one taking any pictures inside the sanctum.

The 3 tier Gopura
The three tier intricate gopura
Photo credit- Ramani Shankar
Kalasha and Hoysala insignia
Kalasha and Hoysala insignia
Photo credit- Ramani Shankar 

Both the temples have a Kalasha and the Hoysala insignia on the top. The very intricate 3 tier Gopuras carry mindboggling carvings in every inch, except for the small part that is renovated and is visibly plain.
 
Join me in part II  and part III for a walk around the temple for much more amazing carvings. 


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