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Friday, 27 November 2020

Lepakshi Temple

- History And Significance


We were supposed to meet just for a pizza. Then we decided to maybe just go for a long drive and have pizza on the way back. After a breakfast of crisp, hot masala dosas and some piping hot coffee at the Bangalore Cafe, we set off. 

We had no idea where we were going, so we decided to go near Nandi hills and explore some more places nearby. Just as we were nearing the toll, one of my friends brought up this brilliant idea of going to the Lepakshi temple. So we topped on the first breakfast with a second breakfast at 'Nandi Upachaar' at the junction of Nandi Hills and we were on the way to Lepakshi temple in the town of Lepakshi along the Karnataka-Andhra border. 

Jatayu In Jatayu Theme Park
Jatayu In Jatayu Theme Park

The crisp winter morning was amazingly pleasant. The roads were empty and the drive - incredible. As we neared Lepakshi, the statue of Jatayu from the Jatayu theme park gazed down upon us with its keen eyes. Before we knew it, there we were, standing in front of one of the largest monolithic bulls - The Nandi in Lepakshi.

I thought only me and my friends would be jobless enough to explore a place like this in the middle of the day in the middle of the week.  But I was in for a surprise as more and more people came in. The travel bug was certainly taking over again.

The Monumental Nandi
The Monumental Nandi


Coming back to the Nandi, it is massive. 27ft in length and 15ft in height.
I felt significantly miniaturized in front of it. This Nandi was originally within the temple complex, facing a Linga under a seven hooded snake (we will get there soon enough). But with the village engulfing most of the outer parts of the temple, the Nandi, without moving, moved outside the temple complex.

With the brilliant blue sky and light fluffy white clouds floating lazily across in the background, the Nandi looked incredible. Who could say it was indeed hundreds of years old. 

Outside Entrance To The Temple
Outside Entrance To The Temple


Soon, we reached the Lepakshi temple and a welcoming committee of at least a dozen macaques awaited us. They were very thorough and made sure we carried no food inside. Any food was immediately confiscated, however well hidden it was. We were lucky enough to get through with just a bottle of water. 

At the entrance of the temple sat a gentleman offering his services as a guide. Though initially we decided against it, we engaged him. The result was an enthralling hour of delightful legends woven around the temple. However, on cross-referencing the stories, I noticed that our guide had included his own colorful versions to some extent to make the stories more captivating. Either that or he was really dumbing it down for us.

Anyways I have made some efforts to untangle the mythology from the cine-time masala before presenting them to you. 

Stories of Lepakshi temple are available all over the internet, but here is hoping I can hold your attention long enough for some interesting tidbits too.

History of the Temple

Lepakshi gets its name from the words 'Laya Pakshi' or the unconscious bird as observed by Rama on seeing the wounded Jatayu. Another version says that it comes from 'Le Pakshi' meaning 'Rise bird' as told by Rama to Jatayu. 

The construction of the temple is said to have begun in the year 1522 AD and was completed around the year 1538 AD. Legend has it that the construction began during the reign of King Achutaraya of Penukonda, which was a part of the Vijayanagar empire.  The temple was built by Virupanna, the treasurer of the kingdom along with his brother Viranna. 

Built on 5 acres of a tortoise shaped rock, also called Kumara Saila because of its shape, the temple has a unique feature of having no foundation. Naturally jutting rocks have been used for all the carvings and pillars, while the unused rocks remain in their natural form around the temple.

The main god in the sanctum sanctorum is Veerabhadra Swamy.  Most of us are aware of the story of Sati, daughter of King Daksha and wife of Shiva.  When she visited her father's place for a 'yajna', her father insulted Shiva to no end. Unable to bear the insult of her husband, Sati jumped into the yajna fire and gave her life.

Shiva's anger is well known all across mythology.  When the news of Sati's death reached Shiva, he did the 'Thandava' or the dance in anger. He pulled out a lock of his hair and flung it on the ground. From that emerged Veerabhadra Swamy, who went on to kill King Daksha. 

A keen man, Virupanna, realized the sanctity of this location. With five lingas, Sita's footprint, Jatayu's place of death, it was an easy decision to build a temple at this place.

The Five Lingas

There is a Swayambhu Linga (A linga that manifests on its own) in the sanctum sanctorum, where the main idol of Veerabhadra Swamy is worshipped.

There is another linga established by Sage Agasthya inside the sanctum. That linga is said to be over 5000 years old.  It is said that Sage Agasthya meditated before this linga. 

There are two more in smaller shrines inside the sanctum, one said to be set by Lord Rama over the spot where he buried Jatayu and the other set by Hanuman. Both cannot be dated since they are really really ancient.  

The Thandaweswaram Linga
The Thandaweswaram Linga


The fifth one is outside the sanctum. This is the Thandaweswaram linga, which was established by the Chola king Madhavavarma in the 12th century. We will come to that soon enough too. 

The linga under the hood of the seven-headed snake is not worshipped and hence not counted along with the other lingas.

Our guide was very thorough in his explanations, so I'll have to move to part II for more details about the dancing hall. Do join me there.




Location map:

2 comments:

Shankar said...

You made me go back in time and also recollect my visit to Lepakshi. Beautiful photos

Spotted Owlets said...

Thank you Shankar.