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Sunday 29 November 2020

Lepakshi Temple

- The Enthralling Murals

Thank you for joining me from part II.

 All over the ceiling in the dancing hall are colorful murals depicting various stories from mythology.  Just walking around with head tilted upwards to see these paintings was a challenge enough. So how did the artisans of the bygone eras manage to achieve such incredible perfectionism in their ceiling paintings? 

Also considering that their paints were entirely made of natural substances and have managed to survive almost five centuries, makes one wonder about the modern-day paints. It might be really interesting to paint our houses with veggies, fruits and leaves. 

Ganesha And Ravana
Ganesha And Ravana

On one side is an interesting story of Lord Ganesha, disguised as a dark-skinned young brahmin boy. He takes this form to trick Ravana into placing the Atmalinga given to him by Lord Shiva on the ground. The Atmalinga takes root on the spot, and this is in the present day Gokarna. 

All around the temple are small depressions where the natural ingredients were pounded and mixed to form the paints. 

Parvathi Getting Ready For Her Wedding
Parvathi Getting Ready For Her Wedding

On the other side is the mural of Parvathi getting ready for her wedding with Lord Shiva. Sitting coyly with a mirror in hand and decked in a chequered garment, she is flanked by seven bridesmaids, all wearing different styles of attires and hairstyles. One bridesmaid is seen combing Parvathi's hair, but that part of the mural is a bit damaged to see more.  

Shiva In His Fourteen Avataars
Shiva In His Fourteen Avataars

If there is Parvathi on one side, there is Shiva in his fourteen Avatars nearby, flanked by his own entourage, including his trusted Nandi. This is one of the largest frescos at 24' in length. 

Virupanna & Viranna
Virupanna & Viranna 

Also seen in another section are Virupanna and Viranna, the brothers responsible for the construction of the temple along with two of Virupanna's sons. 

Hampanna and Jakkanna, the chief sculptors of the temple are also seen along with a few more persons who were primarily involved in the construction. Their garments and the typical long ornate headgears of those times is beautifully drawn out in these murals and it is worth craning the necks a little longer to gaze upon these intricate masterpieces. 

Designs Between Pillars
Designs Between Pillars

In between the pillars are a montage of designs. Each is unique in their own way. According to our guide, there were 450 such designs painted on the ceiling of the dancing hall alone. I did not go to count them, so I can neither confirm nor deny that number. 280 more such designs are said to be carved onto the pillars. Before I started the math in my head, our guide made it easier as he affirmed that a total of 730 designs were seen around the temple. Again, I've no documentation of this number, but there were quite a few amazing designs all around. 

According to our guide, all these designs have been now borrowed to form various garment and upholstery patterns. A couple of designs did remind me of some carpets I had seen a while back. 

Krishna On A Fig Leaf
Krishna On A Fig Leaf

Then there was a young Krishna, lying on a fig leaf. The eyes painted 500 years back still follow you around. I almost walked into a pillar while trying to study the riveting eyes of Krishna. He certainly continues to have his charm and magic. 

For more on the magic of the Architecture of this beautiful temple, join me in part IV.

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