-With Its Ornate Keshava Temple
Moving out of the tourist circuit, Tharangini and I decided to take
a peek at an ancient temple complex which is not on the map of any
pilgrims or tourists. But since our aim is to highlight unknown heritage
structures, we decided to visit. Making our way out of Chikkamagaluru town
after an afternoon siesta, we crossed many green fields that were basking
gloriously in the afternoon sun. Even as our glance moved from left
to right, it showed farmers were busy harvesting their crops while some
youngsters were loitering around in village corners.
Veeresh, our friend who had been talking about this ancient temple complex
in Marle village drove us to this place but it became a bit circuitous as
even he had forgotten the way. However, a few villagers guided us to this
beautiful complex standing in one corner adjoining a huge water tank. We
could not reach the temples as the road was cut and we had to take a
U-turn and crisscross many dozing cattle to reach the temple gate.
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| A view of the temples |
However, fortunately, the gate was open and we entered easily while Kitty, a young educated graduate voluntarily informed us that the temple priest had gone out of town for some work and wouldn’t be back till the next morning. Anyhow it didn’t matter to us as we had visited umpteen temples in Karnataka where no priests were seen being ASI monuments.
But dissuading us Kitty said that there was nothing much to see inside the
temples with not much deities remaining. Meanwhile, the village gram
panchayat member said the temple outer walls and beautifully carved
gopuras demonstrated the creativity of Hoysala sculptors from those
ancient times. The walls of the temple follow a zig-zag pattern which is
said to be a Hoysala innovation.
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| Inscription stones |
A very tall granite inscription stone along with a smaller one stand side
by side in the temple complex between the two temples and records the full
details of its construction and consecration. And it says the temple of
Keshava (on the right with elephants in its entry) and Siddeshwara (on the
left) were built in 1150 CE during the reign of Vishnuvardhana Raya. The
ornamentation in this temple is strictly Vaishnava.
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| The Hoysala temple |
The grandeur of the Hoysala architecture is visible despite its smallness
and neglect by authorities. The majestic elephants at the entrance of the
Kesava temple stand as dwarpalakas (gatekeepers) and they are designed in
such a way that they look to be in motion. Embellished with ornaments all
over its head and frontal body, the elephants are carrying lotuses in
their tusks.
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| The outer wall |
Now taking a closer look at the outer walls of both the temples, they are
similarly etched with gopuras and various gods and goddesses in diverse
forms and poses. The Keshava temple compared to the Siddeshwara is in
fact, more ornate and intricately carved. The entrance door’s lintel has a
stone tablet that depicts Vishnu and Lakshmi flanked by their bodyguards
Jaya and Vijaya.
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| The ceiling architecture |
After soaking in the artistry of the sculptors in designing the outer
structure, some four steps take you inside the temple where even the
doorways with its ceilings have exquisite carvings. However, we could not
take a peek inside but that did not dampen our enthusiasm. The GP member
was kind enough to describe and said the temple interior followed the
usual Hoysala style of architecture - a mukhamantapa (with intricately
carved pillars), antarala (some exquisite pillars) and the sanctum
sanctorum with a tall deity that is in the form of a Saligrama.
How To Reach The Temples
It is situated about 12 kilometers from the Chikkamagaluru town on
Hiremagalur Road where one has to take a deviation to reach Marle. It is
situated in the village of Marle that is considered as a historical place.
Location map:
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