Tungabhadra Backwaters

- A Home Away From Home For Winter Visitors

By Tharangini

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Thank you for joining me from Part I.

A couple of young guys announced that the boat was ready. I looked around and did not see anything. Then they asked us to leave our footwear and walk up to the boat. It was just getting more and more curious. 

As we walked, the ground looked deceptively dry and cracked from the lack of moisture. One step in and the underlying clay announced its presence in the most slippery way. Slipping and sliding along we reached the boat. This was no place to make a splash in life. 

The multipurpose boat was used for both fishing and birding. I was not even remotely mentally prepared for this kind of ride. As five of us sat balanced on the rim, hanging on to the boat and the camera was quite a challenge. There were no life jackets and while others boasted about their swimming skills, I held on tighter to the rim.  Even as flocks and flocks of spoonbills, openbills, ibis, terns and ducks flew by, there was little I could do other than gawk.

Ibis and terns flying together

But our boat guys - both brothers - had been trained into bird watching and now they were evolving into expert guides.  My predicament was not lost on others, so as I let go of  the worrying and the rim to  crawl awkwardly on all fours to the front of the boat, they politely pretended to be ok with it.  

The magnanimous heart of Tungabhadra played the perfect hostess to all these visiting birds with equal benevolence. The clean waters, hardly any disturbance, and of course plenty of food at all levels. Even with the huge numbers and variety in species, there is room for all, so not much competition. The Bar-Headed-Geese also head this way, but today they were not to be seen.

A fisherman fishing in the coracle

Brown headed gulls

A fisherman in his coracle was hard at work while a pair of Brown-Headed Gulls stayed close to make a meal of any escaping fish. They knew where to shop. 

Flamingos in the water

The Flamingos finally came into view. Not as pink as I would have liked. They were mostly white with splashes of pink, but as graceful as ever. With their dietary requirements being met and plenty of roosting ground right next to the water, this was a home away from home for the winter guests.  

Flamingos feeding and resting

Parking at a safe distance away from these beautiful birds we watched as some with their heads in the water were stirring up the food, some preened while others had their head tucked in seemingly asleep.The young ones still in their brown downs stayed close to their parents, watching and learning.

Most were standing on one leg. Among various researches conducted on this, some suggest it is to conserve body heat, while the most common answer is, it is simply easier for them this way. With their body weight and dexterity, this just works. 

The spoonbills feeding nearby

A huge flock of spoonbills were following a similar feeding technique nearby. But both groups peacefully tended to their areas in these waters without bothering the other. Of course, the egrets were a lot more social, infiltrating both groups with equal ease. It was not unusual to see an egret head pop up from the core of either group. 

Glossy ibis and mallards take off
 at different levels

The others in the boat had rolled up their pants and waded out in the slush for a closer look without upsetting the guests. I chose to stay crouched in my corner of the boat and watch and photograph the birds.

The flamingos began their take off

The flamingos went on a high alert as a few villagers walked down the bank, probably to their fishing equipment. Soon a whole lot of pink and black wings took to the sky, in search of a new spot in the backwaters. The spoonbills followed suit but it was with such beautiful coordination as each batch waited patiently for taking off till the others were airborne. Despite the huge numbers, there was no lack of discipline.  

The spoonbills wait patiently for their turn

And then take off

It was time for us to turn back too. After getting off from the boat we had to once again slip and slide before reaching the solid ground. The most magical and satisfying feeling swept over me as I turned one last look to see the birds continuing to do their swoops and dives against the noon sky. I was truly grateful to Pompayya sir for putting together this visit, something that will remain evergreen in my memory. 

Memories of the Visit

The best time to visit is from October to March. At least one visit to this magical place is much needed for any bird lover. 

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