Tungabhadra Backwaters

- A Winter Paradise for Birds 

By Tharangini

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Earlier in the Otter story, I had spoken about the morning adventure in Tungabhadra backwaters.This, in an attempt to see the long-legged beauties that come to these backwaters for some lodging and boarding during the winter months.Yes, the flamingos.  

I had been harping about seeing these birds forever. Pompayya Sir had put together a fine little itinerary for the day to ensure that I would not have to leave without seeing them during this visit.The day started pretty early, still not bright outside as we drove towards Ankasamudra for a brief stop. Any bird lover in and around Karnataka would be well aware of the haven this place is for birds from all over.

We were there to meet Vijay Ittigi and Raju, who were among the key players in getting this place declared as a bird sanctuary. Since most newspapers have that story, I'll just stick to my experience here. Most of which was fascinating enough for me to keep scooping my jaw off the floor.

Pelicans at  Ankasamudra

The sun was getting ready to shine upon this part of the world and this place was truly magical. It was still cool. I could barely hear a word as all the early birds of various species competed for the loudest call award. Even the little ones were no less boisterous, reminding me of my niblings back home. I tried to find a spot that was a bit less adorned with bird droppings, to park myself, and get a few shots.

A couple of Grey Herons wait
while the demarcation is visible
 in the trees behind.

The still water was a perfect hunting ground as some herons, pelicans, ducks, stilts, sandpipers, shanks and plovers lazily strolled through, sometimes with fish too big for their beaks. The trees that stood in the water were markedly divided into two halves, a clear indication of the water levels during the rains.  Two friendly-looking common green shanks suddenly jumped at each other viciously, possibly in a territorial fight. Unless of course, if they were a couple...

Common Green Shank feeding

And then the fight

There was so much captivating activity all around that a part of me wished I had eyes at the back of my head too. Those with experience of driving on the roads of Bangalore would have had it easier. But for now the task of staying focused on one subject, meant losing out on another. It was easy to empathize with any kid in a candy shop at that moment. Though the flamingos were awaiting us, it was with great reluctance that I tore myself away from this enchanting place, for our next stop.

Tungabhadra backwaters

About half an hour later we reached the backwaters of Tungabhadra near Narayanadevara Kere. Grass, water, sky and a flock of happy birds looked picture perfect. The air was fresh and I inhaled deeply, only to have the smell of freshly caught fish also flooding in, as the local fishermen set up their temporary stall.  For someone like me, not too familiar with the odor, the prudent thing to do was reorient myself and try not to breathe as deeply.

There was however still no sign of the flamingos.  The others were talking about a boat that would take us to see these birds, while I was in a dream-world. As flocks and flocks of white, grey and black birds landed and took off, the water bore semblance to a runway of a busy airport, with multiple flights landing and taking off seamlessly. A few dozen bugs could have flown into my mouth and I would have not noticed as I tried to drink in every bit of the surroundings greedily with my eyes.  

A row of black winged stilts share space with an egret

Black ibis fill the sky

The Tungabhadra backwaters play host to a variety of bird-life and different birds are found at varying water levels. The food available also differ at these levels and are optimum to the species. From where I stood at that moment I could see several stilts with their long graceful legs skimming the shallow banks for insects and crustaceans. Egrets and herons sauntered nearby for the fish while a huge flock of mallards floated indolently in slightly deeper waters. A large cloud of black ibis flew in while a larger cloud of Terns flew out. 

 

First sight of the flamingos

My first sighting of the flamingos was as they flew by in a beautiful military formation. As exciting as it was to see them, it also meant that they had moved in further, disturbed by some fishing activities.  So our boat ride was going to be a bit longer than expected. 

Growing up in Mumbai I used to see a carpet of pink descend upon the entire mudflats of Sewri, right from the windows of our home. We used to admire and appreciate it, but never truly realized the treasure in our backyard until it was time to do an obstacle race to see these birds.

Join me in Part II for a tour of the backwaters.

Location map: