The Walls of Hampi

- Where More Than History Flourishes 

By Tharangini

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Thank you for joining me from part I

Painted Spurfowls

My first view of the Painted Spurfowl was after we had huffed and puffed all the way to the top of the Mathanga hill to see the sunrise, which conveniently got obscured by the clouds. But just before we began our descent we saw the Painted Spurfowl pair effortlessly sauntering  around the top, oblivious to the inhuman efforts needed by a human carrying a giant camera bag on the back. The male is true to the name with the most spectacular plumage while the female tends to merge into the background more effortlessly.  Almost always seen together, they are like an epitome of compatibility. What is their secret?

Yellow Throated Bulbul

One of the most precious and vulnerable species that finds its home among the rocks and boulders of Hampi is the Yellow Throated Bulbul. Flitting around with teasing calls and then disappearing with equal ease, this bird is hard to find. The path to Achyutraya temple via Mathanga hill is one of the places where this endemic bird comparatively abounds. 

Indian Pied Wagtail

Not just the endemics, the ancient ruins also accommodate winter visitors in plenty.  In fact winter is a bird paradise in Hampi.  Birds and bird lovers of a feather folk together to this place during the migrating months. This Indian Pied Wagtail was basking in the market area near Virupaksha temple, albeit least bit interested in the architecture. 

Hanuman Langurs relaxing in the 
market area near Virupaksha temple

Hanuman Langur near mosque area

The past day Kishkindha was near and around the present day Hampi.  Kishkindha was the kingdom of the vanara or the monkey King Sugreeva.  Needless to say Hanuman Langurs and Macaques are found atop every ruin, hillock and temple. They move around in vast numbers and fearlessly,  among the tourists from all over the world. At times I've seen the Macaques and Langurs more well behaved than some of the tourists,  whose  behavior would have put any macaque to shame. 

Macaque basking in the evening sun
in Hemakuta hill

Hanuman Langur atop a hillock

The Virupaksha temple gopura hosts so many macaques that during evenings it feels as if the whole tower comes alive with the endless chatter. They are also very well aware of the temple timings.  When the temple priest thoughtfully sets out the prasada or the temple offering for them, the entire clan descends for a dinner feast before retiring for the night.

There are of course other mammals like leopards and sloth bears that roam around under the cover of the night, but I have not had the luck of seeing them - for rest assured if I had, there would be at least three more related blog posts to this. 

Millipede in Mathanga hill

Millipede Hatchlings

We have covered birds and mammals, but come monsoon the whole place is overrun with another species that we have to watch almost every step we take lest we stomp upon the brightly colored red guys who seem to be just about everywhere. The Millipedes breed all over the place during this time and red patches appear at regular intervals when the young ones start their first crawling adventure. Every set has over 500 hatchlings. So how many legs? do the math...

I implore all you wonderful people out there to give yourselves some extra time when you are in Hampi next time to glance at the living walls. 

I've bare scratched the surface of the immense treasure that exists here and will definitely make efforts to cover a lot more soon. Till then I leave you with this. 

Location map: