– From A Tumultuous Past To A Peaceful Present
I have visited many gardens around the world but none has left the deep impression that Khusro Bagh has. Today, it is a hangout for young couples in the afternoons while in the morning for old walkers. In fact, tourists to the city give it a miss while local people are not interested in their heritage. If you visit this place during the season, then one is fortunate to enjoy the aroma of guava and mangoes.
This unique garden in the heart of the holy city, with its family tombs brings to life the troubled and traumatic times of Prince Khusro, the heir to Mughal dynasty and the eldest son of Jahangir. We could not see the interiors of any of these tombs as they were barricaded and locked.
Khusro met his end at the hands of his own brother Shahjahan who got his brother killed for usurping the Mughal throne. His father Jahangir, addicted to opium and wine, too blinded his son and imprisoned him fearing Khusro would depose him as Akbar had always favoured his grandson. Unfortunately, Khusro became a scapegoat in the tussle for power between Akbar and Jahangir. Unable to bear the intrigues of the Mughal rulers, Khusro’s Rajput mother committed suicide. After this incident, Akbar forgave his son but Jahangir never forgave his son Khusro.
The walled garden was renovated last year and is home to the best fruits ranging from guavas to mangoes. People coming to this holy city make it a point to visit this garden to enjoy the ambience as also to see the artistic Islamic calligraphy and carvings on the tombs of Khusro, his mother Manbhawati Bai (his Rajput wife was also called as Shah Begum) and his sister Nithar Begum.
However, the funny thing is the most elaborately done tomb of his sister is empty as she lies buried in Sikandra which is Emperor Akbar’s tomb. Although Nithar Begum built her own tomb in Prayagraj in these vast verdant garden as she wanted to be buried along with her mother and brother but sadly it was denied to her. Nithar Begum’s tomb is highly embellished and the ceilings are elaborately painted with stars in concentric circles while the marble walls have floral patterns and shrubs.
Location map:
Walking and treading on old pathways in historical old cities, one can
feel the vibes of that era that may have been joyful or tragic. One such
garden in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, India gives you this feeling of having
lost many things in life. High walled gardens with imposing entries are
very rare but this one makes you take a peek around the 40 acres of
peaceful oasis that hides the tumultuous past of one family.
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The entrance |
I have visited many gardens around the world but none has left the deep impression that Khusro Bagh has. Today, it is a hangout for young couples in the afternoons while in the morning for old walkers. In fact, tourists to the city give it a miss while local people are not interested in their heritage. If you visit this place during the season, then one is fortunate to enjoy the aroma of guava and mangoes.
However, Khusro Bagh is very different from other gardens across India
as this garden is completely walled in the tradition of the Islamic
heritage but is unlike the elaborately done and planned Mughal gardens.
There are three major tombs here which are sandstone monuments and an
amazing example of Mughal-Rajput architectural style but so far away
from the royal seats of Delhi and Agra.
This unique garden in the heart of the holy city, with its family tombs brings to life the troubled and traumatic times of Prince Khusro, the heir to Mughal dynasty and the eldest son of Jahangir. We could not see the interiors of any of these tombs as they were barricaded and locked.
Behind the inspiration for designing this beautiful garden, is a pathetic
tale of a person who was deeply religious and a believer in the Sufi
faith. Khusro was banished to Prayagraj by his father where he lived with
his family, always pining and craving for his earlier life in Agra. He was
imprisoned in these gardens for many years before he was killed.
Khusro met his end at the hands of his own brother Shahjahan who got his brother killed for usurping the Mughal throne. His father Jahangir, addicted to opium and wine, too blinded his son and imprisoned him fearing Khusro would depose him as Akbar had always favoured his grandson. Unfortunately, Khusro became a scapegoat in the tussle for power between Akbar and Jahangir. Unable to bear the intrigues of the Mughal rulers, Khusro’s Rajput mother committed suicide. After this incident, Akbar forgave his son but Jahangir never forgave his son Khusro.
The walled garden was renovated last year and is home to the best fruits ranging from guavas to mangoes. People coming to this holy city make it a point to visit this garden to enjoy the ambience as also to see the artistic Islamic calligraphy and carvings on the tombs of Khusro, his mother Manbhawati Bai (his Rajput wife was also called as Shah Begum) and his sister Nithar Begum.
However, the funny thing is the most elaborately done tomb of his sister is empty as she lies buried in Sikandra which is Emperor Akbar’s tomb. Although Nithar Begum built her own tomb in Prayagraj in these vast verdant garden as she wanted to be buried along with her mother and brother but sadly it was denied to her. Nithar Begum’s tomb is highly embellished and the ceilings are elaborately painted with stars in concentric circles while the marble walls have floral patterns and shrubs.
Hiding a violent past, this serene garden was also a meeting place for the
1857 Sepoy Mutiny when the people of this city rebelled against the
British. It was Maulvi Liaquat Ali who led the revolt from this garden and
had captured it and declared independence but that is another story.
How To Reach There:
A sprawling walled garden at a distance of three km from the Prayagraj
Junction railway station, Khusro Bagh lies hidden in the Khuldabad
area.
Location map:
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