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Friday 3 July 2020

Lakshmi Narasimha Temple - The Man in the Long Coat And More



Though regular pooja happens inside the temple, the work of overzealous devotees who conduct their own mini poojas on the carvings outside,  has made them red and yellow. Incense sticks were also lit up right next to these carvings. Little did they realize that though their hearts were in the right place, their actions were doing more damage than good to the temple.

One unfortunate aspect with no escape from, are vandals. With initials and proclamations of love adorning certain patches, this temple has also attracted its share of defacing. But it is certainly doing much better than the Navalinga temple at Koppal where the vandals have been a lot more destructive in their efforts.

The man in the overcoat
The man in the overcoat


But let's begin our tour with 'the man in the overcoat' as mentioned by Ranganatha Sharma.

This carving really intrigued me as the man was holding a serpent in his right hand as well. He had a very definite swag. The full coat he wore looked very akin to some modern day attire. He wore a cloth over his head that fell loosely over his shoulders, almost similar to the Arabian styles. This was unlike the man bun that other men of those times had. He was also wearing some kind of platform shoes. The left hand held something that I could not identify. But he did seem to be really modern for his times or he was not from the local area.

The very ornate umbrellas carved over them
The very ornate umbrellas carved over them
The  weather worn structure still manages to ooze out an incredible charm.
The  weather worn structure still manages to ooze out an incredible charm.  

Some of the other carvings that occupied the various key positions around the temple were pretty intriguing too.  Despite the toll on the temple over the centuries, the weather worn structure still manages to ooze out an incredible charm.  A number of these carvings had very ornate umbrellas carved over them. Was this because the rain gods shower upon this town with an increased intensity?

Musicians playing various percussion instruments
Musicians playing various percussion instruments
Graceful dancers frozen in time  in their fluid poses.
Graceful dancers frozen in time  in their fluid poses.

Musicians playing various percussion instruments were setting the rhythm to the graceful dancers frozen in time  in their fluid poses.  Large hooped earrings or circular ornate earrings swung from the ears of these carvings as if they were captured in the middle of a beautiful movement.

The lady stood gracefully with a pet monkey at her feet.
The lady stood gracefully with a pet monkey at her feet.

A very short monk carrying an umbrella

While one lady stood gracefully with a pet monkey at her feet, another carving depicted a very short monk carrying an umbrella very similar to the ones these days. The dancers sporting impossibly perfect figures stood gracefully in various poses.

An unfinished stone
Unfinished business

Among these also stood a blank stone with just an outline etched on it. My guess is that some inspired sculptor in the recent times would have tried a hand on this blank stone and abandoned on realizing the complexity. There were a few more incomplete carvings hidden among the other jewels. These seemed to be from the original times.

The dance of Shiva
The dance of Shiva

The music of Krishna
The music of Krishna

Lord Shiva dancing on a demon and Lord Krishna engrossed in playing his flute occupied a couple of prime spots. But Goddess Durga seemed to be the most popular with the devotees. For she was covered in flowers, turmeric and vermillion all over.  Even as we were looking at each carving there was one women praying fervently there. Just wish it did not involve innocent yet detrimental religious beliefs.

Goddess Durga
Goddess Durga

The other carvings
The other carvings including the couple

In some places cobwebs engulfed the figurines in their silky bonds. A couple stood in a passionate embrace in one of the panels, oblivious to the others around them, while another panel had a man in a rather different attire. He too wore a long overcoat and had some kind of cloth draped over his head in the same Arabian style and wore similar footwear to the man with the serpent. In fact these men and a couple more were the only ones who wore footwear and that too some kind of heels among all the carvings there.

Carvings with multiple nuances
Carvings that are a treat
for the curious

I must have done more than three Pradakshinas around the temple trying to take in as many nuances of the carvings as  possible. My pradakshinas were filled with admiration and  fascination. Though the grandeur was not the same as of the Amrutheswara temple, there was enough to pique my curiosity to a large extent.

As we stepped out, a smiling face offered us the 'prasada' or holy offering. It was hot, fragrant and the quantity was equivalent to a mini meal.  We politely took just a small handful, underestimating the incredible taste.  Once again skipping across the baked earth we rushed back to our vehicle which equally felt like stepping into a hot oven.

My suggestion for those visiting this temple would be to not compare it other Hoysala temples  but to take time and explore its individuality. That's when the magic happens.


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