Koodli - The Ramesvara Temple

By Tharangini

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This was the last visit for the day. The universe has a way of bringing us to the right place at the right time, even if we are oblivious to its ways of working. This was one such visit and I was one such oblivious soul.

We were in Koodli at the Ramesvara temple, near the  point where the rivers Tunga and Bhadra join to embark on their journey together as Tungabhadra - an incredibly holy place. Also the place where people come to offer prayers and bid adieu to their loved ones. The place harboring a very different kind of energy, with Koodli literally meaning  'the confluence', the name itself says everything.

Koodli Ramesvara Temple

I knew very little of this as I embarked from the car. The day had already managed to sap out every last bit of moisture from me. Drenched in sweat and completely dehydrated, I must admit the enthusiasm level was much much lower than earlier in the day. Boxing up all the discomfort, I stepped into the temple.

Temple view from the north side

 The temple was smaller and nondescript compared to the others that we had visited that day.  We were the only ones in the temple at that time. The silence was welcoming and the peace descended upon us unequivocally.  The cross ventilation was incredible, washing away all the exhaustion. This was pretty much the relief I needed and I stood rooted there enjoying the peace and allowing the breeze to cool me off.

The small depressions on the floor
for playing games

 Despite the bright light outside, the three doors to the temple let in limited light. We had entered through the southern entrance. It took some blinking to allow the shapes inside the temple take form in front of our eyes. Right in front of the door was a small pattern of depressions on the floor. Possibly a favorite place to catch up with a game of some sort. I had seen these in other temples as well.

Someone had clearly left an indication that temples were more than a place of worship. It was also a  favorite hangout for many generations.

Inside the temple

The 12th century  temple is quaint, compact and modest. The open mantapa is supported by lathe turned pillars and these are one of the very few Hoysala trademarks in the temple. The ornamental carvings that are an integral part of the other Hoyasala temples seem to be conspicuously missing here.  The 'slaying of the lion' Hoysala symbol is probably the only noticeable carving on the temple.

Even the outer gopura is noticeably devoid of any kind of ornamental carvings. Now this might probably make this article a lot shorter than it was deemed to be.

The main deity,
the linga in the temple

The east facing Linga, seated in the closed sanctum,  is the main idol in the temple. Gazing silently at the Linga, sat a much larger and a slightly ornate Nandi. Idols of Bhairava and Ganesha were watching us from one of the darker parts of the northern wall. 

Bhairava idol

As per wikipedia "Normally in Shiva temples, idols of Bhairava are situated in the north, facing southern direction. He is also called Kṣhetrapāla. He appears in a standing position with four hands. His weapons are drum, pāśa (noose), trident and skull. In some forms of Bhairava, there are more than four hands. He appears without dress and with a dog. His weapons, the dog, protruding teeth, terrifying looks, and a garland with red flowers all give him a frightening appearance."

We could not see them well till a frail lady entered and switched on the lights.  A smile lit up her wizened face as soon as her gaze fell upon us. I guessed the regulars might not be spending much time there. She was filling in for the main priest and the patience and devotion with which she performed the pooja made it evident how involved she was in the entire process.

Please do join me in part II to continue on the journey towards the confluence.

Location map: