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Sunday, 5 April 2020

The Irumbai Legend Comes True In Auroville Forests



Walking in the scorching heat of the Eastern Coast of  India on the outskirts of  Puducherry - I suddenly entered a ‘green oasis’ in the middle of old and ancient villages that was dusty and silent.

It was 11:30 in the morning and the East Coast Road was literally crawling with motor bikes and people honking unnecessarily when suddenly Loganathan our auto rickshaw driver took a sudden right turn into a marked dirt road.

Auroville Forests
The greening of wastelands

The environs changed dramatically with patches of green and tall trees visible on both sides of the road while interspersed with hi-fi shops and some bungalows and healing centres. But my interest in these structures was minimal and finally I had to get out of the vehicle and walk on foot the rest of the way. This ‘green oasis’ in Auroville - the City of  Dawn is something that touches you as a degraded land has been reclaimed in the most natural way.

Auroville Forests
The thick canopy

Tall trees and high canopies literally hide the strong rays of the mid-day sun while traversing from one part of the forest to another and  providing shade to many walkers on way to the Ashram. I wondered  how such a cool breeze could emanate from a place that is just five kilometers from the Bay of Bengal. This is the forest developed by Auroville on one side of the famous golden metallic globe Matrimandir.

Auroville
Auroville

Many people go to Auroville to see the ashram but for me it was the unique forest surrounding this universal township that touched my heart. According to the Irumbai legend - the forests that once existed here turned into a desert – cursed by a yogi. The Irumbai tribes' belief was that they would be revived by people from far off lands.The people of the Irumbai village therefore believe it is the Auroville people who are responsible for the restoration of theses forests.

Auroville Forests
The Irumbai legend

However, coming to reality - in the 18th century the forests were systematically destroyed by the British and later by the French. But come what may, the Irumbai tribes who live in these regions relate this legend again and again how the land was cursed but ultimately was blessed with verdant forests.

Ambling across this area on guided pathways that take you to many hidden green treasures, I just took a peek but did not venture deep into the forest so as not to disturb the birds and reptiles that were enjoying a snooze on a lazy afternoon. I was soothed by the sounds of the chirping birds and the rustling sounds of the leaves now and then. As I walked and overcame the sizzling heat - the carpet of leaves made a rhythmic and crunching sound.

Auroville Forests
The Banayan tree

A helpful and local villager said, “Once this land was completely barren and nobody ventured around this place. Despite bogged down by various litigations on land issues – it was a land chosen by the Mother [Mirra Alfassa, a French woman who founded Auroville] to build the universal township.”

Auroville Forests
An interesting twist

It was only in 1968, work was initiated to convert a wasteland into a beautiful forest. In fact, this huge area of 405 hectares serves as lung space for people living in the ashram. Although Matrimandir attracts almost 5000 people every day but it is the dense forests developed by the followers that takes your breath away. One of them is the Banyan Tree that goes round and round in circles and God knows where it winds up or begins.

Auroville Forests
Pathway through the Auroville Forests

The universal citizens living in this township have created a unique green belt in a place which had turned into a desert due to wrong policies of the European colonizers. They had cut each and every tree for satisfying their own greed for timber. But today this oasis is a Tropical Dry Evergreen forest and comprises only native species and not some exotic variety from South America or Africa.

Auroville Forests
Indicative boards in Auroville Forests

Over a thousand species of trees, shrubs and liana abound this area while many of them have been identified and marked with details connected to its history and nativity. According to local Auroville guides – Tropical Dry Evergreen forest is very special as only 0.1 per cent exists on earth and is close to extinction. The sprawling forests are counted among as the country’s most successful project and so replicated in other places in Tamil Nadu like the Palani Hills.

How to get there?
Auroville is an experimental township housing citizens from across the world and it is located in Villupuram district of Tamilnadu and is just 12 kilometers from Pondicherry city. So one can travel on the East Coast Road that connects Chennai and Pondicherry.

Location map:







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