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Tuesday 31 March 2020

Hampi - Surprises At Every Turn



The monuments of Hampi are taking a breather for the first time in a number of years. The multitudes of footfall have been replaced with silence as the whole of India is under lock-down. I could not help but wonder what if the lifelike carvings in these beautiful monuments just came out for a walk in this silence to take over their land again.

Wild imaginations aside, join me in visiting just a few of these incredible carvings on this short tour. They are from different visits and different temples but all hold the same magic.

Beautiful lady at the entrance of Krishna temple
Notice the hairband and the choker
among other accessories


Let's start with this beautiful lady at the entrance of Krishna temple. The hair on her head was  pushed back and held in place with a beautiful piece of jewelry that seemed to be very similar to the hair band of these days. Her hair was pulled back into a tight bun on top of her head, which appeared to be one of the most commonly depicted hairstyles in these carvings.

 A closer inspection of her neck revealed that she was wearing a choker. It was almost worn out, but enough to give an idea. Clearly a lot of new fashion these days are not exactly new, but inspired by our more savvy ancestors.

Large circular earrings
The earrings, large and circular
with place to embed gems?
Individual hair strands are also
visible in the hair style.

The earrings were large and circular with depressions. This was seen in most carvings where women of royalty, goddesses or dancers were depicted. Were precious stones embedded in them?  How any ear was physically capable of holding up such enormous earrings is beyond me.

Another carving showed similar hair-band, earrings and almost similar hairdo. In this one, the fine lines depicting the hair strands were also visible.

Carving at Hampi
This lady had a different hairdo,
with some kind of a knot behind.

Mother and child
A mother and child.
Simpler jewelry and simpler hairstyle

Young woman and pup.
The young woman with a
 pup nipping at her hair.

But in a lot of places the craftsmen had taken the liberty to be a lot more creative with the hairdos.There was this girl, or a very young woman, really stylish, with a fancy and a very different hairstyle. She was trying to keep a small pup ( my guess from the eroded carving ) from pulling her hair. Her hair was partially twisted and plaited at the end. She had a self aware posture, demure yet confident.  Wish there was a way to travel back in time to see these amazing carvings in their prime.

Monkey tugging at a woman's clothes
Monkey tugging at a woman's clothes.

After the pup, there was a monkey, tugging at a woman's clothes, as she carried a pot. It was not too clear if the monkey was meant to be a pet.  The craftsmen were adept at getting their inspirations from all around them. The next time I am there, I am going to be inspired to look for more of these kind of carvings, that may be tucked here and there. These were really small, some not even 3 inches in height but had so many interesting tales to tell.

Man hunting.
Man hunting deer with his pet dog.
Notice the man-bun.
This panel was just about 2-3 inches high.

Too much focus on the ladies? The men-folk also led a very interesting life, doing macho stuff like taming elephants, wrestling, hunting, etc.  I am not even talking about the bigger carvings. All these are the ones that are hidden away in nooks, corners and barely noticeable places. Yet they had such  amazing details.

Wrestlers grappling
Wrestlers grappling

Arm wrestling
Arm wrestling or just showing
off muscular strength?

The wrestling men were a part of a pillar. They were too busy grappling while two other men were either arm wrestling or just showing off their muscular strength on another pillar. Man-buns were the order of the day with most sculptures depicting men with a neatly tied bun behind their heads. So definitely not a recent fashion statement for sure.

Taming an elephant.
Taming an elephant.
This was hiding in a panel 3 inches high.

Is it any wonder that despite innumerable trips, Hampi continues to fascinate. With so many surprises that spring up every visit,  I really doubt if Hampi will ever reveal all her secrets.

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