Veeranarayana Temple In Belavadi

- The Saga of Ageless Unspoiled Beauty

By Tharangini

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When I first walked into the Veeranarayana temple in Belavadi, which is about 29 km away from Chikmagalur, my first instinct was to hug every pillar and stone in the temple. After having seen so many ancient temples falling victims to modern granite and worse, bathroom tiles in the name of renovations, this temple with its original look and beauty, was  like a much needed breath of fresh air. It was also so intoxicating that I was immediately smitten by its beauty.

Temple view from a nearby cottage

The temple surrounded by age old houses on all sides wore a silent look as we walked in on a late Wednesday afternoon. Apart from a few guards there was no one else around. A couple of ornate elephants welcomed us into the 13th century temple complex. The haze of the setting winter sun was lighting up the eastern face of the monument while the western face was already draped in the shadows.

Ornate elephants guarding the entrance

The smooth soapstone flooring, worn out by the many footfalls, felt cool under the feet. The solitude  gave us the full opportunity to energetically connect with the temple in the most basic way. Standing in the middle of the passage, surrounded by the multiple lathe carved pillars, I could sense and feel the vibrations emerging  and bouncing off the pillars, carvings and even the floor of the temple. It was magnified  enough that I could almost close my eyes and breathe it in. It was such a happy feeling.

Multiple perfectly carved pillars in the passageway

It was impossible to imagine what technology and methods they had employed during those times to achieve such precision in their works. The pillars could not have been just hand carved to maintain such consistency in each one of them. The calculation was immaculate to say the least.  The carvings were perfected to the most minute details. The enormously meditative effort was possibly the vibrations that could still be felt in the premises.

The inner sanctums were locked since the priest was not around, but we could see the dimly lit figurines in the glow of the lamps through the gaps in the door. We would have to wait another day to see the Venugopala, Yoga Narasimha and the Veeranarayana idols behind these doors. But the rest of the temple had more than enough carvings and details to keep us captivated by its sheer beauty and intricacy for over an hour.

Stone bench seating ran all around the inside of the temple, with elephants and warriors in various forms of combat adorning the base of these seats. I could imagine a congregation of people gathering here during festivities or just on warm days for various discussions.

Ceiling design with complex entwined figurines

Ceiling design with Krishna playing
the flute dancers embedded in the artwork.

The ceiling was divided into squares and they had the typical Hoysala type of carvings. Some of the carvings were so ornate and complicated with twisted decorative figurines indecipherably wrapped around each other, that it made me wonder how they managed to achieve such perfection on the ceilings. I could barely achieve the same on paper even with a whole lot of guidance.

A group of women walked in hurriedly,  looked around and breezed away in as much a hurry to visit Shravanabelagola. Though barely 12 kms from Halebidu, this temple did not seem to attract as many visitors as its counterparts, which seemed really unfair to its grandiose architecture.

Details covering the entire outside wall.

On the outside,  every single carving seemed to tell a different story. While every inch of  each of the three gopuras was covered with various details , the walls running around were also covered with breathtaking carvings. So much that it was almost overwhelming to take it all in.

A saint on the outer wall. Was this Buddha?

Was this a meditative Mahavira?

Apart from the very ornate gods and goddesses, there were also a couple of saints. Were they Buddha and Mahavira?

Complicated ornaments and jewelry design

The large enough earrings to cover the entire ear.

Most of the ornate figures had large circular earrings covering the entire ear. If one had to wear them in real life, the ear would tear away in an instant. I was left wondering if they were really earrings, considering the very gear like semblance of these ornaments, or were they something else entirely. The same question arose about some of the head-gears which looked like intricate machinery rather than jewelry.  A couple of figures held shields that looked like accordions.

The accordion-like shield

This carving confirmed it was a shield.

There were also smaller carvings carved in 8" x 5" spaces with a myriad of details. In one, three bulls with bells and an adult holding a child were squeezed in. Was this to indicate the arrival of Krishna in Gokul? There were more such carvings, in each of which there were a mandatory of three to four belled cows and bulls along with some humanoid figurines in various activities. Though most were eroded I guess all these panels relate to Krishna in Gokul.

Bulls/cows and a Nanda holding baby Krishna

Bulls/cows and a dancing Krishna

Another scene from Gokul

I could go on describing every single detail in the temple and still not tire of it, because of the profound impact this flawless structure had on me.  Due to the lesser number of tourists here as compared to the mainstream heritage sites, it continues to have a meditative feel in it.  Or at least it could have been at the time we decided to visit there.

Belavadi is also known as the place where the Pandava brother Bhima killed the demon Bakasura during their exile years. This place is a must-visit for anyone who would love to see an unspoiled heritage site. But I would definitely say, spend some time there to fully soak in the essence and the beauty. I almost hugged the elephant guarding the entrance on our way out much to the amusement of the guards there. But it was so worth it.....


Footnote: I was lucky enough to be able to visit the temple once again and get a few more insights. Do read about it here.

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