Magic Of The Evening Puja At Virupaksha Temple

By Tharangini

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It had been a long day of travel and birding for a couple of friends and me in Hampi. Though it was still early in the year, the afternoon heat had drained our energy and we were at a point of just dragging our feet around. But there was something more in store for us. An experience so different and so profound that even to this day when I close my eyes, the scene remains fresh in my memory.

The start of the rituals

We had just reached the Virupaksha temple and it was late evening and early night. A few souls wandered around making their way towards the exit. The main temple door looked shut and I went and parked myself on the nearest set of steps. The stone still warm from the daytime heat sent soothing waves of relaxation through me. The gentle warmth caressed my tired feet and I soaked in the peace of the almost empty temple courtyard. My muscles began to relax involuntarily. It was a dark, new moon night and the stars shone brightly despite the light pollution. The macaques on the temple tower were still chatty and excited. Perhaps they knew something I did not. Turns out they really did know more and had a good reason to be excited.

The simpler ritual on regular days

The gentle breeze and the silence of the night was suddenly broken by the sound of Nadaswara and Thavil* (South Indian Instruments). Jolted out of my slothful state I was suddenly very awake.

I watched  as a man appeared from the far side of the temple with what looked like a fire torch. A modern version of what would have been in the olden eras.  He was quickly followed by two more priests with one carrying boiled rice offering for the deity. They finished a Pradakshina (ritual of walking clockwise around a shrine) of the temple courtyard and disappeared behind the temple. By now all my energy was back and I was feeling as excited as the macaques on the temple tower and maybe equally chatty. I realized I was witnessing the evening puja at Virupaksha temple for the first time and it was magical.

The palanquin bearing the deity being carried around the temple courtyard.

The torch bearing gentleman made three more Pradakshinas of the inner sanctum after which the Nadaswaram went silent for a few minutes. I knew there would be more. There was a small wooden palanquin sitting ready in the sanctum. Thavil, Nadaswara and a different gentleman carrying the torch this time, led the second part of the ritual. They were followed by the temple priest and two people carrying the palanquin which had a small idol of the deity placed in it.

I do not know if it was the music from these instruments reverberating through  the otherwise silent atmosphere or the glow from the fire torch that lit up the various carvings as they walked past or the whole ritual in general, but it definitely transported me to a different era altogether. For someone like me who is really not much into visiting temples, this was an extremely moving experience. It was like the energy in the temple still held memories of centuries old grandeurs and was sharing it with those who chose to feel it.

Lakshmi makes her appearance during the puja.

After three rounds around the courtyard, they moved to the far end of the temple and the few of us who were still hanging around to witness the spectacle followed. Lakshmi, the temple elephant joined us there.  My conservationist and an animal lover bent of mind and heart went out to her and her lonely existence in the temple. But it was clear that for the temple regulars she was an iconic part of the monument and much loved by them. She knew her routine well. As the final puja (religious ritual)  for the evening was being done, with a slight nudge from the mahout, she bent her knees lifted her trunk and paid her respects to the deity. Maybe she had a connection more special than any of us could comprehend with the divine.

The grander procession on special days.

After the puja the deity was moved to the sleeping quarters for the  night, a small inconspicuous chamber at the end of the temple. The doors were being locked and it was time for us to move out.

The boiled rice offering that was taken out earlier were kept in various locations around the temple and the macaques had come down as if on cue for one feast before retiring for the night. The reason for their earlier excitement and chattiness was now clear.

The deity on an elephant on special days

After this experience, I've made it a point to be a part of this ritual during each visit. On certain days I have witnessed a grander procession with more people and on others it is just the torch, the offering and a few scattered audience. The rituals depend on the lunar cycle according to the significance of the days. Lakshmi's presence is also only during the special days. I am still vague on those details. But I do hope my experience will trigger the desire in you to experience this simple yet deeply impactful event at least once.

P.S - The shots are not shaken and stirred as they may seem, but are attempted attempts at panned shots to suit the mood, taken after being inspired by a friend.

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