Just like Goa, the French styled city of Pondicherry too is known for its
pristine and crystal-clear beaches. But one does not see the same jostling
crowds on its golden white sands and beaches.
Therefore, a
visit to Paradise Island should not be missed if you want to forget the
world. The beach is in fact, located right at the mouth of the Chunnambar
backwaters. This place is considered a paradise as it is flanked by a
creek on one side and dark mangroves on the other side.
There is something magical when one goes on a winding journey from a
river to the endless expanse of a sea. Traveling in a steamer and enjoying the
windy, choppy journey, I ask you to visualize my thrilling experience in just
three minutes. It is not just the Arabian Sea but even on the Bay of Bengal
and the eastern coast of India, one gets such moments to take up such
escapades once in a while.
As we were winding up our visit to Pondicherry, Loganathan, our
guide-cum-driver who took us to most of the sights in this old French colonial
town, was insistent that we should not miss this incredible experience.
Although we had hardly any time at our disposal since we were taking the night
bus back to Bengaluru, he dropped us off at the Chunnambar Boat office by 3
pm. I was already exhausted as it was a hot Tuesday afternoon and pretty
sticky and sweltering even in the month of January.
A couple of young guys announced that the boat was ready. I looked around
and did not see anything. Then they asked us to leave our footwear and walk
up to the boat. It was just getting more and more curious.
As we walked, the ground looked deceptively dry and cracked from the lack of
moisture. One step in and the underlying clay announced its presence in the
most slippery way. Slipping and sliding along we reached the boat. This was
no place to make a splash in life.
The multipurpose boat was used for both fishing and birding. I was not even
remotely mentally prepared for this kind of ride. As five of us sat balanced
on the rim, hanging on to the boat and the camera was quite a challenge.
There were no life jackets and while others boasted about their swimming
skills, I held on tighter to the rim. Even as flocks and flocks of
spoonbills, openbills, ibis, terns and ducks flew by, there was little I
could do other than gawk.
Earlier in the Otter story, I had spoken about the morning adventure in
Tungabhadra backwaters.This, in an attempt to see the long-legged beauties
that come to these backwaters for some lodging and boarding during the
winter months.Yes, the flamingos.
I had been harping about seeing these birds forever. Pompayya Sir had
put together a fine little itinerary for the day to ensure that I would not
have to leave without seeing them during this visit.The day started pretty
early, still not bright outside as we drove towards Ankasamudra for a brief
stop. Any bird lover in and around Karnataka would be well aware of the
haven this place is for birds from all over.
We were there to
meet Vijay Ittigi and Raju, who were among the key players in getting this
place declared as a bird sanctuary. Since most newspapers have that story,
I'll just stick to my experience here. Most of which was fascinating enough
for me to keep scooping my jaw off the floor.
Their sounds and numbers make their distinctive presence and lifts the
very mood of a person visiting Prayagraj. If people throng and crowd the
Triveni Sangam every year from across the world - not to be left behind,
the gusty seagulls from Siberia come calling for their winter halt in
Prayagraj, the holiest city of India.
For once in my life, I was pretty excited as I was going with a group of
friends and relatives to one of the holiest cities in India, Prayagraj.
Although my visit had nothing to do with anything holy, I had always
wanted to see the Yamuna as she is here a major partner compared to the
Ganga. Although everyone dissuaded me not to travel during the Ardh Kumb
time, my mind was made up and I was pretty curious to see the biggest
gathering of humans in one city, therefore, nothing could stop me, cholera
or the crowds.
As we visit temples in South Asia or South East Asia, one thing that stands
out are the various forms of Lord Ganesh . Most of them are rock cut and
either in standing or sitting posture. Since he is considered as the remover
of obstacles and a harbinger of wisdom and success in life, one can find his
image in every known form in temples across the world. You can even find him
atop volcanoes, in the middle of dense forest, near seaside, on hill tops and
any place that one can think of.
He is one god who has reached the foreign shores and one can see Ganesh’s
various forms in which he is worshiped. Rock cut carvings of Ganesha can be
seen in many temples which are built at the base of the volcanoes. In
Bali, his images in stone and wood are so common that children sell the
idols to tourists on the highway road to Denpasar.
My first view of the Painted Spurfowl was after we had huffed and puffed all
the way to the top of the Mathanga hill to see the sunrise, which
conveniently got obscured by the clouds. But just before we began our
descent we saw the Painted Spurfowl pair effortlessly sauntering
around the top, oblivious to the inhuman efforts needed by a human carrying
a giant camera bag on the back. The male is true to the name with the most
spectacular plumage while the female tends to merge into the background more
effortlessly. Almost always seen together, they are like an epitome of
compatibility. What is their secret?
For over eight years Hampi has enticed and woven its web of magic,
mysteries and enchantment spellbindingly around me. The addiction has me
craving for more and more, as each year I find myself yet again in this
place, to be intoxicated with its never ending surprises.
As much as the ruins have me under their inescapable spell, equally
enthralling is the variety of life that hides, breeds and thrives on these
walls. The walls that protected empires centuries ago continue to
diligently carry on their duties of protecting and safe-guarding various
life forms that now call these walls a home.
Generations of men, beasts, flora and fauna have come and gone, yet
the timeless wall remains - a silent spectator to the stories from
across time.
As a tribute, here are just a few fleeting glances at the walls that are
very much alive even today with the very different kinds of lives within
them.
Walking and treading on old pathways in historical old cities, one can
feel the vibes of that era that may have been joyful or tragic. One such
garden in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, India gives you this feeling of having
lost many things in life. High walled gardens with imposing entries are
very rare but this one makes you take a peek around the 40 acres of
peaceful oasis that hides the tumultuous past of one family.
The morning was already well spent watching flamingos from the most scientifically and delicately balanced boat. Our weights were equally distributed and even a single untoward movement would have sent the entire boatload for a nice dip in the Tungabhadra backwaters. As the only one of the entire lot, whose swimming skills had not progressed much beyond the doggy style paddling, I think I was the bravest to undertake this adventure. But that is a story for another day.
We were barely a few meters away from the shore
when a crocodile gently broke the shimmering water and announced its
presence. Its eyes and snout glimmered through the liquid gold texture
surrounding it. Bracing myself, I just managed to get a shot when I
felt my feet get wet.
Now how did people fulfill their water needs in the dry and arid regions? In Indian sub-continent at least, one can see a plethora of ancient reservoirs of water since the time of Dholavira or Mohenjadaro. Be its capital Delhi or the neighboring dry regions, one can see step wells (or Baolis) across the northwestern parts of India. Agrasen or Ugrasen’s Baoli is one of the most beautiful structures and today, it is a popular destination for youngsters.
Sri Chamrajeshwara Temple
Image Credit: Wikimedia Commons/Tamilyomen
Long long ago, roughly about a decade and half back, I used to make an annual trip with my uncle to assist with his auditing work. My work was to cross check various calculations and other data verifications, data entry etc. and my incentive was visiting a new place each year. This was much before my peruse of our history and heritage and hence the conspicuous absence of any image in this write up.
So what is this article doing in this blog? As I sat bundled up in my jacket, staring at the pretty determined rain outside my window that was going strong since morning, I was reminded of one of my most memorable visits to a temple during one such auditing trip. With the lockdown having pretty much turned spotted owlets into sitting ducks, I felt it may be a good idea to share this eventful visit with you.
The dating of the dolmens of Bannerghatta is a bit hazy and they are said to belong to the early Neolithic period that is 4000 to 3000 BC. It is amazing how they have survived all these years on hills that are frequented by wildlife and humans and of course, stone thieves. On a trail across the Doddibetta hill ranges, the existence of large herbivores and carnivores can be clearly seen.
A view of more dolmens on the northern part of the hill
Searching for dolmens, menhirs and other very ancient structures has become a passion for me and Tharangini but it never struck my mind there was one in my own backyard. To my amazement, this is just about 25 kilometers from my place where once ancient people had resided and left the footprints of their existence in the nearby forests.
Situated in the heart of Malenadu, the ancient place of Koodli beckons one with its verdant paddy fields, areca nut plantations and shimmering sunsets. Driving through these regions, one soaks in the serene and hilly landscape that is teeming with water birds while in the fading light, the larks make their own songs heard mellifluously over the mesmerizing paddy fields.
Though regular pooja happens inside the temple, the work of overzealous devotees who conduct their own mini poojas on the carvings outside, has made them red and yellow. Incense sticks were also lit up right next to these carvings. Little did they realize that though their hearts were in the right place, their actions were doing more damage than good to the temple.
One unfortunate aspect with no escape from, are vandals. With initials and proclamations of love adorning certain patches, this temple has also attracted its share of defacing. But it is certainly doing much better than the Navalinga temple at Koppal where the vandals have been a lot more destructive in their efforts.
After our rendezvous with Amrutheswara temple in the morning, we reached Bhadravati by noon for a brief sojourn at the Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy temple. The modest temple with a rich history, tucked in the center of the town was abuzz with the footfall of the morning worshipers when we reached there. They were trying to finish their prayers, worships, pooja and get the blessings of the lord before the temple closed for the morning.
It was the thought of ‘Ring of Fire’ that kept me awake throughout the night and I was hopeful of seeing it properly even if it was a cloudy day and the sky was not clear. Thousands of people across many cities were glued to the skies through various formats – if some were at planetariums, astrophysics centers, others congregated in small selective gatherings at river banks, educational institutions due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The deadly virus did not dampen the spirits of many who managed to get a plethora of celestial images of the annular solar eclipse on June 21 from various places across India.